For some time, we were looking forward to tasting 2017 Brandborg Whale Song Blanc de Noir – the very first sparkling wine from Brandborg winery. We acquainted with their wines when we visited Umpqua Valley of Oregon in 2007.
Since 2002 Terry and Sue Brandborg produce a range of harmonious, distinct wines in a cool, coastal climate terroir of Umpqua Valley. We already had a chance to taste Brandborg’s Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Chardonnay, Rose, Pinot Noir, Grenache, and Tempranillo. With the introduction of their first méthode champenoise sparkling wine, they made their wine list one of the most versatile in Oregon.
2017 Brandborg Whale Song Blanc de Noir
Blanc de Noir is our favorite kind among sparkling wines made in a traditional method. That’s why we were so excited to taste the 2017 Whale Song.
What’s in the Bottle
2017 Whale Song Blanc de Noir is brut nature made with grapes from Ferris Wheel Estate Vineyard, Elkton AVA.
Let’s talk about what’s on the label and in the bottle.
First is the name of the wine. When we saw the label, it made sense to us. But for someone who doesn’t know Brandborg’s story as well, it needs a little context.
We suspect that many winemaker’s secret desire is to make a Champagne or a traditional method sparkling wine. We think that Terry and Susan dreamed of it too. So when they made it, they needed a name to celebrate this achievement and the name of their wine club – Orca. That’s why Whale Song is so fitting for their first sparkling.
Another essential information on the label is the phrase “Blanc de Noir.” It’s important because it tells you about the style of sparkling wine or Champagne. Typical Champagne is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. But sometimes it can be made with just one of those grapes. Blanc de Noir indicates that this sparkling made from 100% Pinot Noir.
Pinot Noir grapes for this sparkling came from a very cool vineyard located at an elevation of 1,000 feet and close proximity to the Pacific Coast. Why is that important? Such a cool site allows the grapes to retain the acidity, and for sparkling wine, it’s a crucial element.
Another indicator of the style of this wine is “brut nature.” Typically, traditional bubbles go through the process of “dosage” before the final bottling. At this point, winemaker determines how dry or sweet the final product will be. “Brut Nature” means the driest expression of Champagne or traditional sparkling. There was no sweetness added to Whale Song, and it’s sweet or dry as nature intended.
Now that you know what’s in the name, it’s time to talk wine.
In the Glass
Whale Song has a medium gold color, which is more intense than a typical sparkling. The bubbles are fine and steadily rising from the bottom of the glass.
Aromas
The aromas are classic bubbles: apple, lemon, yellow plum, minerality, and yeasty brioche. Mineral and brioche don’t overshine fruit but rather add complexity to the fruit on the nose.
Flavors
The mousse sensation is delicately creamy. The palate is crisp but not overly dry like some brut nature bubbles may sometimes be.
On the palate, it’s classic as well. Apple, lemon zest, grassy, and mineral.
Conclusion
It’s a classic sparkling wine on par with some good Champagnes we tasted. We liked all the classic Champagne notes in it, natural yet tempered acidity and effervescent sensation with mineral and key-lime pie notes in the finish.
Making their first bubbles must have been nerve-racking for Terry and Susan because it’s a complicated process, and many things can go wrong. They did great, and we look forward to the next addition.
Rosé bubbles, maybe?
