Have you ever had Grüner Veltliner wine? 2017 Weingut Laurenz V. Charming Gruner Veltliner might make a nice introduction into this flagship Austrian grape.
Don’t be intimidated by the “grew-ner velt-Lee-ner” tongue-twisting name. Gruner is a light-hearted refreshing variety that shines in the Wachau, Kremstal, and Kamptal wine regions of Austria.
By the way, if the name seems too complicated, you can always call as I did – Gruner and those familiar with the grape would know what grape you’re referring to.
Grüner Veltliner comes in many different styles, from inexpensive easy-drinking beach and pool white to fancy dinner sophisticated wine that you can meditate over for the entire evening.
2017 Weingut Laurenz V. Charming Gruner Veltliner
In the Bottle
2017 Laurenz V. Charming Gruner Veltliner fits somewhere in between entry-level and top Gruners, both in quality and price.
Charming Gruner is produced by Laurenz V. (five), located in the Kamptal region. Here, the Grüner Veltliner ripens in granite, gneiss, mica slate and loess soils. The cool northerly resulting in significant day and night temperature swings slow the ripening process, which helps grapes to retain refreshing acidity and aromatics.
Charming Gruner is a blend of fruit from over 30 top Kamptal vineyards reflecting different traits of the region. The wine is fermented in stainless steel vats and stays on fine lees for eight months before bottling.
Fine lees are essentially small particles consisting of dead yeast, tartaric crystals, and few other things that are sometimes allowed to stay in wine until bottling. Fine lees add body, texture, and complexity to ready wine.
All of that explained what we tasted in the wine.
In the Glass
Fermenting and ageing Charming Gruner in stainless steel vats helped the wine retain its perfumed aromatics of pear candy, lemon rind, limestone, and even a touch of vanilla. The last bit was pleasant and unexpected. We wonder whether fine lees had something to do with it.
On the palate, the first noticeable thing was a more substantial body than we come to expect from Gruner-based wines. It also had an almost oily-like texture. Both body and texture are benefits of eight months of fine lees ageing.
The pear candy theme continued on the palate with the addition of apple, Meyer lemon, peppery feel, and pleasant chalky minerality.
Finish
How did it fare on the scale from entry-level to top-notch Grüner Veltliner? In our view, it’s a solid mid-level Gruner that’s closer to entry-level wine. Still, its impressive mouthfeel and pear candy aftertaste would make it hard to enjoy any lesser Gruner. Surprisingly, this Charming Gruner even reminded us of some stainless steel Chardonnay.
Considering the quality and price, 2017 Weingut Laurenz V. Charming Gruner Veltliner became a new addition to our list of value wines under $20.
What are your favorite Grüner Veltliner? We would love to hear your recommendations in the comments below.
