We picked 2014 Avignonesi Desiderio and 2017 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley for our Merlot wine swinging challenge.
One might ask, why not Bordeaux versus California? After all, Merlot comes from France. Well, that would be cliche, and it's ongoing battle since the Judgement of Paris in 1976. While keeping with the format, we thought it'll be fun to substitute Toscana for Bordeaux.
Why did we pick Avingnonesi and Duckhorn?
While continents apart, both family wineries started around the same time and located in somewhat similar climates. Both are among the innovators and top producers in their distinct wine regions. Both wines represent the blend of grapes from different parts of their wine-growing areas.
Merlot: Avignonesi Challenges Duckhorn
California Merlot vs. Italian Merlot
2017 Napa Valley Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot
Duckhorn Vineyards
Duckhorn was Founded by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn - coincidentally or not - in 1976, the year of the Judgement of Paris. They've been crafting classic Napa Valley ever since and earned many accolades for their wines. Duckhorn made the Wine & Spirit list of the "Top 100 Wineries" in the world eight times and topped Wine Spectator's annual list of the world's "Top 100 Wines."
They were among the first to champion Merlot as a premium varietals and now produce several elegant Merlot and exemplary Cabernet Sauvignons.
In the Bottle
The fruit for 2017 Napa Valley Duckhorn Merlot sourced from the several individual lots of estate vineyards and independent growers throughout the Napa Valley. It's a seductive blend of 80% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, and 0.5% Malbec.
The wine was aged for 15 months in 40% new, 60% neutral French oak barrels following the fermentation.
In the Glass
Duckhorn Merlot is a classic expression of Napa Valley. It's a jammy wine with aromas of raspberry, stewed plum, dark chocolate, tobacco, and a hint of vanilla. The flavors reflect the ripe vintage with black currant jam, plum, cocoa nibs, herbs, and balsamic notes.
The aftertaste is cocoa and plums.
2014 Avignonesi Desiderio Merlot
Avignonesi Estate
While Avignonesi Estate dates back to the 14th century, its modern history started when Falvo brothers took over Avignonesi and essentially refounded it in 1974. They investing significantly in viniculture, selecting the local varieties and introducing international grapes such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir.
Avignonesi consists of four wine-producing estates: Le Capezzine, I Poggetti, La Selva, and La Lombarda. The property in total consists of 218 hectares of open ground, 103 ha of vineyards, and 7 ha of olive groves.
In the Bottle
Have you ever had a wine dedicated to a bull? We have!
The label was dedicated to Desiderio - a bull that lived on Avignonesi's Capezzine farm more than one hundred years ago. Desiderio was the largest bull in Tuscany at that time. This majestic animal helped define the Chianina cattle race, specific to the Bistecca Fiorentina (Florentine Steak).
2014 Avignonesi Desiderio is 100% Merlot made from the grapes of the select Avignonesi's vineyards in Toscana. It went through four weeks of fermentation in stainless steel tanks with indigenous and was aged in oak for 18 months.
Many professionals consider Avignonesi Desiderio a part of elite "super-Tuscans."
In the Glass
2014 Avignonesi aromas had a seductive bouquet of red plum and raspberry, clove and thyme, game and tar, vanilla and minerality.
We tasted raspberry jam, red plum, black currant, cocoa nibs, and rye toast on the palate.
The long aftertaste was filled with dark Swiss chocolate, dried apricot, and prune.
And the winner is...
We picked the winner reluctantly. We liked both wines for different reasons. In short, Avignonesi charmed ask with its sophisticated nose and Duckhorn with its balanced palate.
They are similar in some regard because both are Merlot-based and represent the entire regions, Napa and Toscana. On the other hand, they came from different continents and different climates.
Californian winemakers used new oak barrels, and Italians preferred neutral. Another difference is that Italian used native yeast. Lastly, Duckhorn is essentially mimicking left bank Bordeaux blend while Italian wine is 100% Merlot. In the end, Italian Merlot is less influenced by the winemaking process and is a purer reflection of the varietal.
Essentially, these wines are the reflection of different winemaking philosophies, and that's why it was so much fun comparing these wines and so hard to pick the winner.
To help us decide, we ran "there could be only one" test, and 2017 Duckhorn Napa Merlot won.
Now we wonder what you would pick. Any favorite Merlots of the same caliber?