Pinot Noir is among the most sensitive grapes when it comes to terroir. Bestheim Exception Pinot Noir of 2014 and 2015 vintages is a shining example of it as our vertical tasting demonstrated.
They should taste and smell the same. At least, that’s what waiters tell us in the restaurants when they list one vintage on the menu but bring another.
After all, it makes some sense; both bottles came from the same winery in France’s Alsace region and were created from the same grapes following the same method. The only change is the year of production. Yet, the difference was apparent as soon as we popped the corks. How come? Let’s solve this puzzle together!
Bestheim Winery
You’re right if you thought that Bestheim is just too easy to read to be a French name. Historically, Alsace was part of the German-speaking area of central Europe. To this day, a large proportion of all generations’ population speaks or understands Alsacian, a dialectal form of German closely resembling the German spoken in Switzerland. In the last two centuries, Alsace has passed from Germany to France back and forth.
Bestheim winery is a concept that is unique to the Old World of wine. In 1944, following World War II devastation, a group of Alsace winegrowers banded together to build one winery that would serve them all. Now it’s winemaking cooperative, resulting from successive mergers of 5 Alsace wineries: Bennwihr, Westhalten, Obernai, Sigolsheim, and Kientzheim-Kaysersberg. Definitely French!
Now, 75 years later, they are going strong. The winery makes award-winning Crémants d’Alsace (sparkling wine), Grand Crus and everyday classic whites, and Pinot Noir.
Alsace Pinot Noir
Did you know that Pinot Noir is the Alsace only red wine? The Alsace is a white grape country dominated by Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurtztraminer, Muscat, and Auxerrois. Only 10% of grapes are Pinot Noir.
Pinot Noir used to be the third wheel in Alsace and only grown, so they have a red wine to drink.
It used to be a weak, lightly colored red with no character. This was rightfully so since no one expected Pinot Noir to result in good wines due to the location and colder climate. Noble white grapes occupied all the best vineyards. The finicky Pinot Noir got the most inadequate sites with the least sun exposure and low chance to fully ripen.
Things changed in the 20th century when some vintners started to experiment with Pinot Noir. They planted vines at the better sites and gave them all the tender loving care they deserved. Results followed, Pinot Noir grew in popularity, and others started to plant it.
Still, even with better results and growing production, most of Alsace Pinot Noir consumed within the region, and only limited quantities sold outside of France.
That’s why when we saw the opportunity to wineswing with two different vintages from the Alsace producer of Pinot Noir, we jumped at the chance.
Bestheim Exception Pinot Noir 2014 and 2015
As the name “Exception” suggests, these wines result from a parcel selection of the old Pinot Noir vines grown on the slopes of Bestheims best terroirs. Thus the grapes can reach full maturity and ripe tannins.
The wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks with maceration (skin contact) for 2 weeks. Following the fermentation, the wine was aged in 225 and 500-liter barrels for 12 months.
Seemingly these wines should taste the same. After all, that’s what waiters and some sommeliers say when they bring a bottle with a mismatched year from the menu, “It’s the same wine, just a different year.” But is it?
Smelling the Difference
While visually, both wines looked the same, they smelled and tasted quite different.
2014 Exception Pinot Noir was quite floral with notes of dark rose, black cherry, and black pepper.
2015 Exception was notably less fruity on the nose with forest floor, wet leaves, and mushrooms leading the way with black cherry on the back end.
Tasting the Difference
2014 Pinot had a red fruit character. It was totally cherry-delicious with flavors of cherry, bing cherry, and cornelian cherry.
2015 Pinot had black fruit flavors with black cherry and cherry pit dominating thE wine. Somehow it tasted like an entire cherry tree with berries, leaves, tar, and twigs.
Why the Difference?
We purposely didn’t look up these wines before tasting them to avoid possible preconceived notions.
We guessed that the main difference was that one of the vintages was warmer than the other, and we were right. As we suspected, because of the black fruit character of the 2015 Exception, it was a warmer vintage.
Typically, the warmer years for the colder climates such as Alsace’ may result in better wines. But winemaking is part science, part art, and part magic.
Our favorite was 2014 Exception Pinot Noir, despite coming from a more challenging vintage. We loved it for its floral aroma profile with red fruit character and fruity nature.
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