Remember sheep Dolly the first mammal cloned in 1996? It was a revolutionary event in science and accidental discovery. Twenty-two years later it's still more of a scientific curiosity than a widely used practical application.
Lucky for us cloning of grape vines is two millennia old practice with proven results. People simply adopted the natural phenomena of propagation to replicate the grapes with desired characteristics and flavors. Growing it from seed wouldn't do it because each seed has mom and dad genes in it and, theoretically, resulting plant might be slightly different. So the best way to replicate favorable plant is to clone it or take a cutting from the mother plant and replant it.
All Pinot Noir clones and almost all other varietals in the United States came from France. Back in the early 1960s, there was only one certified Pinot Noir clone available in the United States - Wädenswil. It was imported from Burgundy by University California Davis.
Oregon Pinot Noir Clones
In 1965 David Lett, one of the founding fathers of the Oregon wine industry brought the first cuttings of Wädenswil clone from University California Davis to Oregon. A decade later Lett’s 1975 Eyrie Vineyards South Block Reserve Pinot Noir vinified from this clone earned international acclaim. The Oregon Pinot Noir has arrived!
Other clones followed. In early 1970s Dick Erath and Charles Coury brought Pommard clone, and it became one of the most widely planted Pinot Noir clones in Oregon. It produced a flavor profile that was complementary to the Wädenswil clone, and early Oregon Pinot Noirs were blends of these two clones.
In the 1980s half a dozen new clones, collectively called Dijon clones were introduced to Oregon. Today there are over 200 Pinot Noir clones, 15 of which are widely propagated.
The debate continues over which makes the best Pinot Noir, wine from a single clone or a blend of clones. Another ongoing argument about which is better, official clones or “indigenous clones” from individual vineyards known as selection massale.
Interestingly, when we spoke with a few French winemakers who call Oregon home now the topic of clones rarely comes up when you taste wine in France.
We have tried Oregon Pinot Noir made from single clone grapes, various blends of different clones and selection massale. We found favorites in each category. What's yours?
Here's a video excerpt of our conversation with the winemaker of Ayres Vineyard passionately talking about clones and their importance.
