Did you know that in the 18th century, only royalty could afford wines from the same grape as 2018 Oddity and 2018 Mezes Maly?
That explains the producer’s name — Royal Tokaji from Hungary.
Until the 20th century, it was exclusively dessert wines called Tokaji, made from native Furmint grapes. Modern winemakers, in tune with contemporary tastes, produce it in both styles – dry and sweet.
While dessert Tokaji is widely available in specialty wine stores, dry-style Furmint wines are rare. Having tried dessert Tokaji, we were excited when we saw 2018 Oddity and 2018 Mezez Maly. The best part is that it’s a rare opportunity for a horizontal tasting of this rarity: same vintage, same grape varietal, same region, and same producer.
Tasting Dry Style Furmint Wines
2018 Tokaji Region Vintage
The summer of 2018 was hot, with temperatures often above 35℃, again accelerating the ripening of the grapes, which were harvested earlier than ever before in the written history of Tokaji. They started harvesting grapes for the dry wines in August, three weeks earlier than the previous record, and finished in early September, a date usually marking only the start of the harvest. In short, it was hard to make anything less than great wine in 2018.
It also means that it was an excellent vintage to compare because the primary difference between these two wines is the source of grapes and the vinification process.
2018 Oddity Tokaji Furmint Dry
2018 was warm and early, providing ripe, full-flavored Furmint grapes with balancing acidity from several vineyards in the Tokaji region.
Whole bunches were pressed for gentlest extraction and fermented in stainless steel tanks and partly in barrels. After fermentation, about half the blend was matured in Hungarian barrels with a proportion of 15% new oak to add subtle notes and texture.
2018 Mezez Maly Great 1st Growth Tokaji Furmint Dry
Mézes Mály grapes came from one of the best lots in Tokaji, one of just two vineyards classified as a Great First Growth. Think in the same terms as 1st Growth Bordeaux.
After harvesting the Furmint grapes, whole bunches were pressed and fermented in 300-litre Zemplén oak barrels. After fermentation, the wine was matured in oak for six months.
Face off: Oddity vs. Mézes Mály
We like both wines, yet the differences in their production, as minor as they may seem, made an impact on wines that was hard to ignore.
We could sense their relationship as if we were looking at two young, gorgeous sisters. Both wines were perfumed, delicate, and intricately connected by their land.
2018 Oddity came through with notes of jasmine sencha tea, wax candles, and peach aromas and flavors.
While equally as dry, 2018 Mézes Mály had ever-sweet aromas of mountain honey, beeswax, ripe orange, and marzipan. We even sensed a with of Sauternes and dessert Tokaji notes.
While we would buy either bottle without thinking twice, Mézes Mály easily justified the $20 difference compared to Oddity. Still, with a price tag under $20, Oddity is an outstanding value and joy.
What are your favorites in the Tokaji region, sweet or dry?
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