It’s possible that the best Walla Walla Syrah is yet to be planted. It’s also possible that determining “the one and only” is a mission impossible altogether. Why?
When we asked winemakers at the Walla Walla Wine on Tour 2023 to name a grape varietal best suited to grow in Walla Walla Valley of Washinton, most said Syrah. In the words of Brandon Moss, Gramercy’s winemaker, “The beauty of Syrah in Walla Walla is that it’s well suited for all sites. The resulting wine will taste differently depending on the vineyard where the grapes came from. Better yet, some sites compliment each other so much that their blend is way more than a sum of two.”
Brandon’s response confirmed what we thought all along. It explains why all Walla Walla syrah tasted so different.
Best Walla Walla Syrah 2023
Here are a few highlights from our Syrah tasting at the Tour:
Spring Valley 2019 Nina Lee Syrah
Nina Lee Syrah by Spring Valley Vineyard was the lightest and more tempered than other Syrahs we tasted at the event. It’s also the one with the most cherry note and flavors that reminded us of Kirsch liqueur.
Dusted Valley 2020 Stained Tooth Syrah
Stained Tooth tasted like the typical Syrah we expect from this region, with dark chocolate and bold tannins leading the way. In contrast to Nina Lee, this Syrah was dominated by dark berries and blueberry in particular.
While we liked it, Stained Tooth needs some time in a bottle to dial down its tannin.
L’Ecole 2020 Syrah Estate
L’Ecole Estate Syrah from Seven Hills vineyard was among our two favorites at the event. The profile was closer to that of Rhône of France, yet distinctly Washingtonian.
It was plumy and chocolaty on the palate and nose, with notes of cacao nibs and dry herbs.
Long Shadows 2018 Sequel
The Sequel Syrah comes from a winery that started a unique project curated by celebrity winemakers from around the globe – Long Shadows.
This Syrah was as Washingtonian as they get, with dominant dark chocolate and plum on the background. We even felt that it was too much chocolate for us. But hey, some like it chocolate!
While chocolate, it’s hardly a sweet wine because there is enough acidity to balance the richness.
Gramercy Cellars Syrah
Gramercy Cellars had a lineup of three, from a regional blend to single-vineyard Syrah.
2017 Walla Walla had a savory character with red plums, cherry sauce, black olives aromas and flavors, and the least chocolaty Syrah at the event, along with Nina Lee.
2018 Lagniappe Red Willow Vineyard
Lagniappe Syrah is made with fruit that’s hard to come by from a Red Willow vineyard on an Indian Reservation. It was more of an herbal than savory Syrah with notes of thyme and oregano. Still, it was fruitier than Walla Walla blend with plum and dried cherry defining its profile.
2019 John Lewis Reserve
John Lewis Reserve, Gramercy’s flagship Syrah, is the selection of the best barrels. As in previous years, it was made from the fruit of the famed Les Collins vineyard.
While still having the savory and almost cured meat notes, we mentioned in previous wines, the Reserve was even fruitier than Lagniappe.
It was a balanced combination of red and black plum, blueberry, and dark chocolate. The substantial tannin was better incorporated than in most other wines we tasted. The finish was smooth and silky.
Top Three Syrah
Our favorites were 2019 Nina Lee by Spring Valley, 2020 Estate Seven Hills by L’Ecole, and 2019 John Lewis Reserve by Gramercy.
We like them for different reasons. Nina Lee charmed us with its cherry personality, Seven Hills for its classic style, and John Lewis for its smooth character.
Currently, Cabernet Sauvignon dominates Walla Walla because it’s more commercially advantageous. Yet, Syrah is uniquely suited for Walla Walla Valley can achieve greatness.
In our opinion, Napa of California has an edge in American Cabs, but when it comes to American Syrah, we look for Walla Walla wines.